Thursday, January 29, 2015

Tracking Hangboard Workouts, Winter 2

The X axis represents time: workouts 1-8 for my second winter hangboard training cycle.  The Y axis represents "pound seconds" or number of pounds bodyweight held times seconds held, summed for both sets in the intermediate HB routine from the Rock Climber's Training Manual.  Some notable patterns:

  • I changed all* grips to more challenging locations between 4 and 5.    
    • Moved medium and small edges to the far outside of the adjustable depth edge. Or 1 to 2 finger widths wider than before.
    • Moved RP (Ring Pinky) from the jug to the deep inner 2 finger slot.
    • Moved MR (Middle Ring) to the shallow inner 2 finger, IM (Index Middle) to the shallow outer 2 finger slot.
    • Sloper is only grip that I did not make more difficult.
  • I only took 1 rest day between workouts 7 and 8
    • This means that I did not progress as much as I would have liked. 
    • However, I wanted to get one more workout in before transitioning to power. 
    • For some grips I chose slightly lighter weights for my final workout to consolidate my progress and set the foundation for my Spring HB season. 
  • This measure of weight X time is highly sensitive to drops in total seconds per set.  This means that in the future I will put extra effort into making sure I maximize my # of seconds for every rep.
    • This influences the measure especially if I fail on the 4th rep of the second set, I will make sure to put in both of the last two reps instead of skipping the 6th rep. 

Here is another view, this time with the amount of weight removed or added,
 averaged between sets 1 and 2.    

By the time I got to session 6 I felt that I wanted to stop pushing progress on weight, especially with the 2 finger grips.  I had gotten the feeling that my muscles were likely strengthening faster than my tendons and supporting tissue (the limiting sensation seemed to be in my hands rather than my forearms).   Therefore I focused more on just putting in some good, safe workouts.  I expect that in spring season in about a month I will start where I left off and edge up the weight 5 to 15 pounds per grip and see how that feels.

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