Best Holds in the Dojo: Reviews

At the Dojo we set some problems for fun, but we primarily use the space for training and practice.  All of my reviews are based on the primary consideration of how useful a hold is for a home training wall like ours.

Home training walls provide the best climbing and training value when they have plenty of options packed into the prime real estate of the space.  Therefore, my primary consideration is to compare the value a hold provides to the amount of space the hold obstructs.  A distinctive, versatile, and ergonomic hold that does not take up too much space is great.  However, some high profile holds bring new dimensions to the wall that more than make up for their size.

Criteria of evaluation: these are what I see as important and relevant attributes for home climbing walls.
  1. utility / footprint:    how useful is the hold compared to the space it takes up on the wall
    1. ergonomics:   skin, joint, general comfort and non-tweakiness of shape
    2. distinctiveness:  attributes that stand out from other holds
    3. versatility:  how many different ways can this hold be used?
  2. value:  (sum of everything good) / price
I will be writing  brief reviews of the best holds in the Dojo, plus I will also contrast some of the best holds with some that are less ideal for walls like the Dojo.  Some of the holds in my collection are not in production anymore, but the most interesting of these I will also review in case they appear on Ebay or at a local gym sell-off.  For those that are still in production I will do my best to get the model names correct.  Please let me know if I get a point of fact wrong.

Reviews coming soon:  

  1. Urban Plastix: 
    1. Ribbons
    2. Full Service
    3. Tremor
  2. Kilter
    1. Teagan Medium 1
    2. Winter Medium 3
  3. eGrips
    1. Mini Loaves
    2. Sandstone Chips  (screw-ons)
    3. Hueco Patina Crimps
    4. Myorcan TufaPinch
  4. Atomic
    1. Screw on System Pinches
    2. XXL Moons
    3. XL Font Slopers Set #1
    4. Granite pinch
  5. So Ill
    1. Clark (discontinued?)
    2. Decontension
    3. Red river-ish (discontinued?)
  6. Yaniro
    1. Pockets
    2. Pinches

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