Monday, November 23, 2009

Sunken Boulder

The sunken boulder is located just off the Rockhouse trail, headed east, towards the Blue Ash Rockhouse. After passing some minor boulders on the southern end of Crumley ridge, the path turns left, heads north, and overlooks the Athens Mall to the east. The sunken boulder is the obvious boulder in the little clearing just after the clear view of the Mall. The boulder includes three distinct and high quality lines. Although the stone is a bit sandy, it is not problematic. The boulder faces East, so it gets morning sun and will be shaded after about 11:00 in the morning.
  1. The rightmost pic shows the moderate face with the giant chicken head. It is a fun but brief moderate.
  2. Next is a sit down problem on the body tension packed arete. Technical footwork.
  3. The center of the face is powerful and includes a nice deadpoint. The face is fun with a standing start, and seems possible to start a move or two lower also. A low start would really increase the difficulty.
The holds over the lip are leaf magnets, so bring a broom and clean off the summit before your send attempt. There is some chalk on a giant jug to the left of the face route, which could be the start of a brief mantle exercise, but does not rank as an obvious line like the other three problems. If the stone were bullet hard the left jug would be the start of a brilliant traverse.

A couple different attempts on the deadpoint move from the face route.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Overview map: COAD to Sunken Boulder

This map shows the approximate location of notable bouldering areas between the southern terminus of Copperhead Ridge on the west, and Crumley Ridge to the east. Most of this area falls inside the Cucumber Tree drainage, and is accessed by parking at the Cucumber Tree Connector Trailhead.

How to get to the parking:  take East State Street to the east from 33.   Turn left on the road that has a traffic light and leads to Walmart on the right.   The OU credit union is on the left side of East state street, but will be on your right once you turn onto that road and head north.   You will pass some trailers, a house on the right and come to a small (8 car) parking area next to a small barn.  The trail leads up the drainage from there. After 10 min it comes to an intersection with a footbridge on the left.   Cross the footbridge to the left and then stay left on the main trail for about 10 min.   You will pass the emerald in the woods to the left and then turn the corner to the COAD boulders.  The dark green line on the map marks the trail.

(1) The COAD boulders are on the western side of the south end of Copperhead ridge.
(2) The emerald is a bit downhill from the eastern flank of Copperhead ridge.
(3) The lions head wall is at the top of the basin, and is best accessed above, just off of the Athens trail near the juncture with the Basswood Connector.  This wall has a vo warm up, high ball that you might not want to top out.  To the right are a couple of pocket starts, then a crimpy V10 well to to the right.
(4) The sun cave is a shallow rock house is east of the lion's head, and is clearly visible from there and from the major U bend in the Rockhouse trail.  These problems are marginal in quality except for a couple of easy slabs on the right.  The problem in the linked post is a fun slab on the righthand edge of the rockhouse.
(4.5)  Upper tier?  at about the location of the B in Boulder Cove on the map above is a tall, very easy and well featured boulder problem.  There are a few more moderate problems nearby.
(5) The commitment area is uphill from another major bend in the Rockhouse trail, marked by a low wooden bridge.
(6) Big momma and several other features mark the left side of the Rockhouse trail.
(7) The boxcar boulders are downhill from Big Momma.
(8) A crimpy corner problem marks the next major turn in the trail, with several small problems nearby.
(9) The mini- twinkie is high on the ridge after a fair bit of hiking.
(10) Pass a break-down and several small features around the southern end of Crumley Ridge for the sunken boulder, overlooking the Athens Mall to the east.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Long Autumn

Fall has lasted a nice long time in Athens. The walking sticks are enjoying the extra hunting period on the western slopes, under the fallen leaves.