Monday, November 23, 2009

Sunken Boulder

The sunken boulder is located just off the Rockhouse trail, headed east, towards the Blue Ash Rockhouse. After passing some minor boulders on the southern end of Crumley ridge, the path turns left, heads north, and overlooks the Athens Mall to the east. The sunken boulder is the obvious boulder in the little clearing just after the clear view of the Mall. The boulder includes three distinct and high quality lines. Although the stone is a bit sandy, it is not problematic. The boulder faces East, so it gets morning sun and will be shaded after about 11:00 in the morning.
  1. The rightmost pic shows the moderate face with the giant chicken head. It is a fun but brief moderate.
  2. Next is a sit down problem on the body tension packed arete. Technical footwork.
  3. The center of the face is powerful and includes a nice deadpoint. The face is fun with a standing start, and seems possible to start a move or two lower also. A low start would really increase the difficulty.
The holds over the lip are leaf magnets, so bring a broom and clean off the summit before your send attempt. There is some chalk on a giant jug to the left of the face route, which could be the start of a brief mantle exercise, but does not rank as an obvious line like the other three problems. If the stone were bullet hard the left jug would be the start of a brilliant traverse.

A couple different attempts on the deadpoint move from the face route.

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