Friday, August 1, 2014

Maximize your climbing performance for October

Goal:  Flash Twinkie in October

How I am going to do it:

Time to start training for peak performance in October.  Ideally, you will have rested during the last couple weeks of July.   I did one better by driving cross country, visiting with friends and putting on extra training weight with good food and beer.

I plan to keep the muffin top through the strength phase, to maximize value of the hangboard routine.

I am back at the Dojo now, and have started my new training season.  I plan to continue the steady progress I started in the spring season by following a plan based on the Rock Climbers Training Manual by the Anderson brothers.  Here are the key steps to getting started: 
  1. Rest!  Take at least 7 days off from climbing and any training that involves pulling with your hands.
  2. Plan your season.
    1. Assess last season and identify your weaknesses.  For me: 
      1. Endurance on small to medium holds
      2. Finger strength
      3. Resting efficiency
    2. Select concrete goals.
      1. Climb "Twinkie" first try (technically not a flash, I climbed it 19 years ago)
      2. Send: Betavul Pipeline, Check Your Grip, All the Way Baby, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, Narcissus, Super Best Friends. . . .
    3. Schedule your season training cycles, including season highlight trips.
      1. See above.
  3. Start climbing again with your first training cycle
    1. ARC (endurance), body weight fitness and skill training.
  4.  Keep good records in your training and climbing journal.

October will be here before you know it!

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