Goal: Flash Twinkie in October
Time to start training for peak performance in October. Ideally, you will have rested during the last couple weeks of July. I did one better by driving cross country, visiting with friends and putting on extra training weight with good food and beer.
I plan to keep the muffin top through the strength phase, to maximize value of the hangboard routine.
I am back at the Dojo now, and have started my new training season. I plan to continue the steady progress I started in the spring season by following a plan based on the Rock Climbers Training Manual by the Anderson brothers. Here are the key steps to getting started:
- Rest! Take at least 7 days off from climbing and any training that involves pulling with your hands.
- Plan your season.
- Assess last season and identify your weaknesses. For me:
- Endurance on small to medium holds
- Finger strength
- Resting efficiency
- Select concrete goals.
- Climb "Twinkie" first try (technically not a flash, I climbed it 19 years ago)
- Send: Betavul Pipeline, Check Your Grip, All the Way Baby, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, Narcissus, Super Best Friends. . . .
- Schedule your season training cycles, including season highlight trips.
- See above.
- Start climbing again with your first training cycle
- ARC (endurance), body weight fitness and skill training.
- Keep good records in your training and climbing journal.
October will be here before you know it!