Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Lion's Head Wall

So, this is the lion's head on the left hand side of the lion's head wall.  The rock is some of the most solid and featured in Athens county.  A tall V0 ascends under the lion's head and to the immediate right. I typically climb up to the lion's head, traverse a couple feet and then downclimb.   The topout is high, committing, sloping, and not necessarily clean.  Here is a view of the wall:

Detail of the right hand side.   A fun and not too hard problem (V2?) starts matched on the low pockets and heads up to the two sets of spooky eyes.   A harder eliminate starts on the low pockets, then avoids the pockets by grabbing a thin crimp, and follows a series of edges straight up to the jugs above. (V5/6?)  The first crimp is fragile, so treat it with care. The far right side has a very hard and very thin problem (apparently a visiting climber completed that problem in recent years at V10).  An undone project starts on the V5/6 and follows the row of small edges right to meet the topout of the V10.

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