Thursday, October 22, 2015

Updated hangboard setup



I installed the Forge using a french cleat to augment my RPTC.  Some grips, like the IMR carryover, but have been made more challenging.  Others are new introductions, like the slopey crimper and the mini-crimp with thumb catch.

My big question for winter training season is deciding on which grips to use from the two boards.  I do know that I will be using the slimper, or slopey crimper because it seems super relevant for sandstone cruxes (see the Anderson's discussion). Also, the new pinches can be used as super deep open hand jugs, which also seem very helpful to include in my training on the board (see my discussion of deep handholds).

In the first photo you can see that there are multiple sets of eyebolts which will allow me to have two pulley setups running at the same time.  This will make switching from one board to the other faster and will allow two people to complete their hangboard sessions at the same time.  The Forge is also located higher from the floor which puts me in a more comfortable position while hanging from the grips.





I used a 2X10 to create a mounting board and a french cleat to allow width adjustment.  I often find myself wishing to adjust the RPTC, but it's location on the bouldering wall precludes that option.  To make the cleat I ripped a 4 inch strip from the center of the 2X10 with the saw angle set at 30 degrees.   The outer strips are bolted to the remaining section of 2X10 and the 4 inch board mounting sections slide in the gap.

I am really happy to have the adjustable width mounting.  I am not the most skilled carpenter so there is a very small amount of play in the system causing the grips to shift very slightly when weighted.

I also purchased the pulley set with the super nice low friction pulleys.  They are a major improvement over the hardware store pulleys that I had been using.



The one drawback of the system is that it ships with eye-bolts for mounting the pulleys that are (in my opinion) insufficient for the task.  I would be reluctant to hang a potted plant from such small eye-bolts.  Not only are they weak and shallow, but the eye is almost too small to fit a biner.  Here they are next to an eyebolt with a fully functional working capacity.