Thursday, April 24, 2014

Updated COAD area bouldering map

This map shows the approximate location of notable bouldering areas between the southern terminus of Copperhead Ridge on the west, and Crumley Ridge to the east. Most of this area falls inside the Cucumber Tree drainage, and is accessed by parking at the Cucumber Tree Connector Trailhead at the end of the street across from the main access to Walmart.

Getting there:  take East State Street to the east from 33.   Turn left on the road that has a traffic light and leads to Walmart on the right.   The OU credit union is on the left side of East State Street, but will be on your right once you turn onto that road and head north.   You will pass some trailers, a house on the right and come to a small (8 car) parking area next to a small barn.  The trail leads up the drainage from there. After 10 min it comes to an intersection with a footbridge on the left.   Cross the footbridge to the left and then stay left on the main trail for about 10 min.   You will pass the emerald in the woods (down hill 50 feet from the triangular trailside boulder) to the left and then turn the corner to the COAD boulders.  The dark green line on the map marks the trail.


1. The  COAD boulders are on the western side of the south end of Copperhead ridge.    This wall has a host of moderate face problems, which are better after you sweep them off, and would be more fun if the down climb was more pleasant.  There are a bunch of decent problems here, most notably the 3 star boulder which is clean and solid.





2. The emerald is a bit downhill from the eastern flank of Copperhead ridge, just downhill from the large triangular boulder, see location on map above.






3. The lions head wall is at the top of the basin, and is best accessed above, just off of the Athens trail near the juncture with the Basswood Connector.  This wall has a great V0 warm up, high ball that you should probably just downclimb.  To the right of the warm up you will find a couple of pocket starts, then a crimpy V10 well to to the right.









4. The sun cave is a shallow rock house is east of the lion's head, and is clearly visible from there and from the major U bend in the Rockhouse trail.  These problems are marginal in terms of rock quality except for a couple of easy slabs on the right.  The problem (and pictured here)  in the linked post is a fun slab on the righthand edge of the rockhouse.


4.5  Upper tier  at about the location of the B in Boulder Cove on the map above is this tall, very easy and well featured boulder problem. A sit down start adds to the fun.  There are a few more moderate problems nearby.  This area at the top of hill, well above the main cliff line to the left of the commitment area.  
5.  The commitment area is uphill from another major bend in the Rockhouse trail, marked by a low wooden bridge.   Just as you cross the small wooden bridge, this area is uphill on the left side of the small drainage.  Bring brooms to sweep the topout.  Commitment is on the left side, while birdsnest is on the right and is a great steep V4/V6+ with a solid pinch rail.


6.  Big momma and several other features mark the left side of the Rockhouse trail.  Big Momma is the striking tall arete on the cliff line.











7. The boxcar boulders are downhill from Big Momma.  This is the best of the three large boulders with some good warm ups, a traverse, and some eliminates.










8. If you continue walking on the main trail to the south east you encounter an obvious trail-side corner cliff with several problems.  The crimpy corner problem marks the next major turn in the trail, with several small problems nearby.

9. There are some scattered cliffs of mixed quality between crimpy corner and the min-twinkie.  The mini- twinkie is high on the ridge after a fair bit of hiking.  The uphill side has a great moderate overhanging problem with solid pockets on an overhang, a rare Athens treat.







10.  Pass a break-down and several small features around the southern end of Crumley Ridge for the sunken boulder, overlooking the Athens Mall to the east.

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Hold density is just about right at the Dojo now